This exhibition, organized in conjunction with the Museum’s 27th Annual Craft Show, represents a pioneering initiative for AAM as it embarks on a new path to integrate exhibitions of contemporary craft into its well-established 3-day event. The Museum seeks to enrich visitor experience by showcasing examples of modern craft alongside traditional work. AAM will offer a diverse array of artistic expressions, highlighting the evolution and innovation within current craft practices. This initiative aims to provide a dynamic platform for both established and emerging artists to engage with audiences and contribute to an ongoing dialogue about the significance of craft in contemporary culture.
The Subversive Thread showcases four artists who challenge the conventional boundaries of fiber and thread art. Han Cao, Jennifer McBrien, Michael-Birch Pierce, and Stacey Lee Webber transcend these limitations through their use of unconventional textiles and techniques, thereby redefining the medium conceptually and aesthetically.
Once considered an essential skill for cultured women in the 18th and 19th centuries, needlework is now often seen as a mere pastime or hobby. However, there has been a resurgence of interest in traditionally feminine artistic pursuits in recent years. Artists have begun to push the boundaries of what was once labeled fiber art, using unusual materials, methods, and conceptual approaches to challenge established norms and explore new possibilities.
One aspect of this exploration is the subversion of expectations. By utilizing unexpected materials such as sequins, leather, found photographs, or even American currency, Cao, McBrien, Pierce, and Webber disrupt traditional associations of fiber and thread. This subversion invites viewers to reconsider preconceived notions and broaden their considerations of how art and craft may overlap.
Han Cao infuses found photos with modern narratives, using needlework to add texture and depth. Each piece invites viewers to engage intimately, bridging past and present through stitches that connect distant figures to contemporary observers. Cao’s sense of humor adds another layer of depth to her work: through subtle nuances and playful elements, she examines conventional perceptions and invites viewers to approach her artwork with curiosity and joy.
Jennifer McBrien’s striking Warrior Women Series features a dramatic departure from the typical confines of embroidery hoops, with vintage toile curtain panels cascading freely from their frames. McBrien’s hybrid figures, merging avian and female forms, symbolize the fragility of endangered species, evolving alongside the deteriorating fabric. Complementing the series is the poignant installation Hanging Them Out to Dry, a visceral commentary on the plight of endangered birds. Hung on a clothesline, embroidered vintage napkins evoke a sense of vulnerability, emphasizing the urgent need for conservation efforts to safeguard threatened species from extinction.
Michael-Birch Pierce explores identity through embroidery, blending traditional techniques with contemporary themes. At the heart of Pierce’s practice lies an intimate exploration of the self and the narratives chosen to weave around it. Through the medium of embroidery, Pierce delves into the layers of identity, often cloaking their creations in the superficial trappings of high fashion and costume. Their work challenges notions of authenticity, inviting viewers to peel back layers of artifice and notice the essence beneath.
Stacey Lee Webber’s choice of American currency as a medium is particularly poignant. By stitching directly onto artifacts of commerce, she forges a tangible connection between past and present, laborer and leader. Ultimately, the act of embroidering through dollar bills becomes an act of defiance — a subversion of the traditional notions of value and representation, making symbols of capitalism available for introspection and critique.
The blending of traditional craft techniques with new materials exemplifies the dynamic evolution of fiber and thread art. By challenging norms, exploring new techniques, and engaging with complex themes, The Subversive Thread aims to reshape our understanding of the medium, inviting the viewer to see the world through a fresh lens.
This exhibition was made possible through Westobou Gallery in Augusta, Georgia.
Read about The Subversive Thread in BMore Art: Five Must-See Museum Shows this October.